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Gambling trip to O Smach, Cambodia
There was fear and loathing in the air as we drove towards the Thai Cambodian border on a cool sunny morning.
We arrived at Kap Choeng, the checkpoint on the Thai side, and parked around the back of an army hut which was freshly painted in shiny green camouflage paint.
Crossing the border is legal for both Thai’s and other nationalities but it really depends what day it is and what mood the Thai officials are in as to who can pass through.
Some days Thai nationals can pass through without a passport, but today we were told that the Thai members of our group could not enter because “the Prime Minister said so”. After about 10 minutes the official changed his mind and the Thai’s passed through sans passports.
The Cambodian checkpoint officials 20 metres away couldn’t care less about Thai visitors and they wandered through immigration unchallenged. I, however, with my white face, stood out like a walking wallet just waiting to be plundered.
And plunder they did. 1000 baht, 2 forms and 15 minutes later I had a 30 day Cambodian Visa and was free to lose my money in one of O Smach’s border casinos.
Although the two casinos are only 100 metres from the checkpoint we were herded into complimentary songthaews (pick up cars with bench seats in the rear) and driven to the front door of the Royal Hill resort.
Both casino’s have enormous entry arches resplendent in gold paint and one gets the impression that more money was spent on these that the actual casinos.
Gambling here is far from sophisticated. Most visitors are Thai day trippers here to gamble and gamble hard.
Wear what you want as you wander the bland halls packed with Thai gamblers and the occasional westerner. Both casinos have one armed bandits, blackjack, baccarat, roulette and a few other games. There are free drinks and dozens and dozens of watchful attendants.
All the money changing hands is Thai currency. Gambling chips are denominated in Baht and the poker machines accept 10 baht coins. You can change other currencies into baht at both casinos without ever having to see a Cambodian banknote.
How honest these casinos are is anyone’s guess. I played a few hands of baccarat and lost every one at 300 baht a pop, then retired to battle the one armed bandits and lose more money. However its fun and a pleasant change from Thailand where a game of poker can land you in a jail cell.
Beyond the resorts there is a row of food and drink stalls on the main road heading to O Smach village. Go anywhere near here and you will be offered motor cycle rides in to town, young girls and hard drugs. You have been warned!
The road towards the village runs alongside a picturesque lake framed by a background of lush green mountains. The road is paved only in the resort grounds, once you pass the arch and checkpoint half a kilometre away there is nothing but red dust roads and the ramshackle village of O Smach.
The village is worth looking about although most people either never leave the resorts, or pass right through the village en route to Siem Reap.
Returning to Thailand after a day in Cambodia, the grinning officials demanded a 600 baht “fee” to leave Cambodia. This was clearly to enrich the touts who hang around the border post and after some bargaining my “fee” was reduced to 300 baht.
Then we were across the border and back on Thailand’s modern paved roads lined with 7-11 and Amazon Coffee stalls at every petrol station. A great contrast and a great day out.
Facilities
The O Smach Resort has an impressive entry complete with a giant glowing green lotus set in a fountain. The resort has beautifully maintained grounds which feature, for some unknown reason, two military armoured vehicles decorated with Christmas lights.
The O Smach resort has a casino and 198 hotel rooms and suites. Room facilities include satellite tv, aircon, en suite, mini bar etc.
The resort facilities include a restaurant, 24 hour coffee shop, swimming pool, gym, sauna and massage parlour.
Across the road is the Royal Hill Resort, offering yet another casino and hotel complex. Prices and facilities are similar to those at the O Smach Resort.
The gaming rooms and interior of the Royal Hill Resort are rather utilitarian, in stark contrast with the impressive entry arch way and shrine in the grounds.
About O Smach
O Smach in Cambodia is located 100 metres over the border checkpoint at Kap Choeng, Thailand. It is 68 Km south of Surin and 440 Km from Bangkok. From O Smach it is 150 Km to the world famous Angkor Wat ruins near the town of Siem Reap.
As at 2006 the road to Siem Reap was poor and the journey can take all day by truck. A road is being constructed to Siem Reap which will improve this journey markedly.
If you are entering Thailand from Cambodia at this border crossing most nationalities will be granted a visa on arrival at no cost. Entering Cambodia from Thailand you are required to pay 1000 baht for a 30 day visa.
The border point re opened in 2002 after being closed for a number of years to due fighting on the Cambodian side. O Smach was the scene of heavy fighting in 1997 as the remnants of Sihanouk’s forces battled opposing forces. Peace came in 1998 and the military evicted local residents and sold off the land to the casino developers.
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