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Follow two Aussies on their fascinating train journey from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur and Penang. Article & photos by Rick M.
The following story is our experience of traveling by train from Singapore to Butterworth, then overnight from Kuala Lumpur Sentral to Singapore and is written exclusively for Hotelzasia.com.
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My wife and I are in our mid forties and we wanted something a little different from the usual holiday and decided to travel by train through Malaysia.
We decided from the outset that to go from Singapore to Butterworth by train would be both different and a more intimate experience than traveling by plane and set about booking initially through our travel agent, and when they were unable to assist we booked over the Internet.
Our view in respect to travel agents is that unless there is a decent profit margin in providing a particular service then they appear to be disinterested, citing difficulties in booking as a way of steering you into something else. This view was echoed after talking to another couple over breakfast in Singapore, who chose not to take the train for this reason. We chose to do it ourselves and removed hotel accommodation from our itinerary to allow for the overnight trains.
Booking the tickets
Well to be honest it couldn't have been simpler. KTM (Keratapi Tanah Maleyu) the Malaysian railway company have an on-line booking service, which we found after viewing the website: “How to travel by train in Singapore and Malaysia” http://www.seat61.com/Malaysia.htm#Fares. The KTM site: http://www.ktmb.com.my/ gives all train schedules and an interesting online interior feature enabling you to see the different kinds of carriages and seating available.
After checking the scheduled times we opted for Singapore to Kuala Lumpur by Second Class train, then a First Class sleeper for the Kuala Lumpur – Butterworth leg. On the way back we locked in the new Premier Night Deluxe sleeper for the Kuala Lumpur to Singapore sector.
The tickets were booked on line paid by Visa Card and e-tickets printed on our home computer, so easy! You are even able to pick individual seats and sleeper cabs with the on-line facility giving you access to what is available on any given day.
Singapore city
Handy hint
All KTM Fares are set in Malaysian Ringgit (RM) and applies to all fares originating from Malaysian destinations. Any journey leaving Singapore will be charged the same amount, but in Singapore dollars. This equates to more than double the cost owing to the exchange rate difference.
We booked separate sectors Sing-KL, then KL-Butterworth for that reason. There was a significant saving doing it this way. At the time of writing the Ringgit was worth 2.80 $AU and Singapore dollar was 1.20 $AU.
The Journey
We boarded Ekspres Rakyat ER2 in Singapore at 8:30 AM with a scheduled arrival time at Kuala Lumpur Sentral of 3:00 PM. The train station in Singapore leaves a lot to be desired, and is not in keeping with the rest of the infrastructure on the island, however that said it did add a little rustic charm to the start of the journey.
The station has a huge entrance hall with 18 painted panels depicting peasant life in Singapore and is bordered by a row of small shops and a restaurant of sorts in the middle. Malaysian customs is to the left and you will be checked prior to boarding. There is a money changer should you need to obtain Malaysian currency prior to departure.
Once clearing Malaysian Customs we boarded, taking our designated seats 4A & B in coach Q, “Superior Class”. After traveling slowly through the city and suburbs then densely wooded swampland we arrived at Woodlands Immigration Centre to be cleared by Singapore Customs.
This seems a bit backward as you first clear Malaysian Customs, however the Singapore officials are only interested with stamping your passport. We found it amusing that you disembark, enter the customs hall, have your passport stamped then head out through another door back onto the train.
Shortly thereafter you leave Singapore, heading over the bridge arriving at Johor Bahru station in Malaysia. I’m sure we had only traveled about 20 Kilometres from Singapore station, which took about 90 minutes but it was all part of the charm and it was interesting to see the back blocks of Singapore.
Train ready for Departure from Singapore
On arrival we immediately noticed the difference from very clean and modern Singapore (apart from the train station), to a somewhat antiquated and dusty looking Johor Bahru. Not what we expected to see as our initial view of Malaysia, but you immediately sense that you are in a different country and that in itself was exciting and interesting as we checked out the industrial looking border town and its many Muslim inhabitants.
You notice the patriotism with the Malaysian flag seemingly flown off every building, something that is not evident in Singapore. A short stop and we were on our way to Kuala Lumpur through winding tropical jungle and over many bridges providing a grand view of the surrounding hinterland.
The train carriage and our choice of Superior (2nd) Class was more than adequate for our needs. The seats were comfortable and laid back a long way. The air conditioning was superb and not at any time did the external heat encroach into the cabin. The Rail Channel was showing on a large TV screen toward the front of the carriage and we watched a couple of movies and documentaries throughout the journey.
We made our way to the buffet carriage for the regulation Coke & Ice (that goes so well with Duty Free!) and bought some sandwiches for lunch at reasonable prices. Not a huge choice of food, however you will not go hungry with curry puffs, burgers, noodle cups and a range of snack foods to sate your appetite. We had a look throughout the first class section of the train noting that it was not much different, perhaps slightly better seating, and did not in our view justify doubling of the fare.
We settled in for the afternoon and enjoyed an extremely pleasant journey to Kuala Lumpur, passing densely forested hills and valleys interspersed with small farms and fruit plantations. Although the train was an express it did stop at major stations, bypassing most of the smaller ones. The stations and surrounds are especially interesting providing the traveler with a snapshot of what life might be like in a small Malaysian town.
Hotelz Asia correspondent Rick hard at work
Before long we arrived in a humid and overcast Kuala Lumpur, alighting at KL Sentral. This modern station provides access to the local MRT (city) and the Kommuter (outer suburban) rail links in addition to the main international line. The complex is very modern and has many shops & ATM’s in addition to restaurants including a food court.
The KL Hilton and Le Meridien hotels form part of the station complex and are a short walk across from the station entrance. The station also boasts a check in facility for air travelers (yes, really) and a direct line and dedicated platform for the airport journey. We checked our bags in at the storage facility (RM 13.00 for 2 backpacks and a suitcase) and headed out to view KL as we had 6 hours before leaving on the night train to Butterworth.
Point of interest
If you are a train lover, then walk across from the station’s rear car park to the Kuala Lumpur Monorail. The journey throughout the city traveling 10 metres above the traffic is fantastic and well worth the small fare charge. Station Nimbi will take you to the Times Square shopping complex and Bukit Bintang (sponsored by Coca-Cola) gives you a view of the city’s alfresco restaurant/ bar area.
There are literally hundreds of shops within
the many shopping/ hotel complexes that are well worth a visit in this area. The train itself is futuristic and better than the ones at Disneyland. They are fully air-conditioned and the stations are great viewing platforms for the surrounding areas.
We certainly recommend the monorail as a great way to see what is a very modern city and you will not be disappointed at the view for a fraction of what a half day tour would cost. A short ride back to KL Sentral and we are ready for the next sector.
The sleeper cab
After spending 45 minutes in the VIP lounge that sits above the train station on level three we boarded Ekspres Langkawi EL8 and headed for our cabin in coach T1 at 8:45 PM for our journey to Butterworth.
The Premier Night Standard cabin was clean and at the ticket check we were provided with a small cake for supper along with a bottle of cold water each. The rooms are small as one would expect, with the bunks sitting east west across the train. Whilst touted as first class sleepers they appear to be quite old, with the furniture giving the age away.
The bunks are smallish, and a person taller than 6ft (180cm) would have some difficulty in lying straight. The air-conditioner functioned adequately and the washing/ toileting facilities were located at the end of each carriage. These too are only fair, and appear no different to what is provided elsewhere throughout the train.
We settled into the journey and watched the lights of Kuala Lumpur until they disappeared as the approaching countryside enveloped us. The cabin was fairly noisy and not much sleep was gained throughout the night. Stopping and starting at various stations throughout the night made matters somewhat worse, however it was not unbearable.
It is worth noting that the journey of 9 hours by train can be done in a coach in around 4 hours. This gives an indication of the train’s speed and how the stoppages affect the time taken to reach Butterworth.
We arrived slightly early at 5:25 AM in Butterworth. Taking our bags and belongings we headed off towards the ferry terminal that is part of the station complex for our journey to Penang Island. We were less than refreshed, but overall the journey was a unique experience and unless you need the full ration of beauty sleep, then give the sleeper cab some serious consideration.
Stopover in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
The return sleeper cab
After traveling by coach from Penang Island to Kuala Lumpur and spending 3 nights in KL we headed back to the Sentral train station for our return journey to Singapore. We boarded at 10:45 PM, once again after the obligatory stay in the VIP lounge.
The Premier Night Deluxe ply's the route from KL To Singapore only and is a new(ish) sleeper aimed at the upmarket tourist. The cabin differs from the Night Standard in a number of ways, not the least of which is the en-suite bathroom featuring a hot shower and sit down toilet. The “sit-down” is a pleasant surprise and if you have encountered a squat toilet on a moving train you will know what I mean.
The cabin beds are north south facing and although appearing comfortable, they seem marginally smaller and the mattresses are fairly hard. We converted ours back to seats (no easy feat) and sat down to enjoy the lights of KL and watched a movie on the decent size television provided. |
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